I grew up scarfing platefuls of banh cuon — rice noodle rolls — which my parents fashioned from freshly made rice sheets that they’d line with a pork, shrimp and mushroom mixture and then fold into ...

The first taste of bánh cuốn led to a yearslong project of culinary discovery. By Bryan Washington My first bites of bánh cuốn were hardly intentional — they came from a banh mi shop tucked in Houston ...