When British and American troops entered Naples on Oct. 1, 1943, they became the new rulers of hundreds of thousands of half-starved civilians and a broken city. Before withdrawing, the German ...

Naples does not reveal itself gently. It arrives all at once—loud, unruly, unapologetically alive.

In Naples, miracles are usually measured in drops of blood. Several times a year, crowds pack the ancient southern Italian city’s main cathedral to watch the dried blood of San Gennaro, Naples’ patron ...