The Manhattan restaurant drew global praise and skepticism with its climate-minded, all-plant menu. Now its chef wants to be more welcoming — and popular.

New York’s iconic Eleven Madison Park, the world’s only three-Michelin-starred vegan restaurant, announced on Wednesday that it is putting meat back on the menu after achieving what most thought was impossible—snagging the first and only coveted three-star Michelin rating for its entirely plant-based haute cuisine in 2022.